The cold weather and abundance of trees, water and peace drew Peter Ebanks to Maine. But it was the space for expanding his business that drew him to Waldoboro in 2022. From Damariscotta, he and his co-partner Keleen Watson moved their store J & J Jamaican Grocery and Gift Shop into what had been Townline Video Plus, on the border of Waldoboro and Warren. It was a massive cleaning job of an old, worn space that turned out to need lots of other work, too. And then there was the winter of serially broken pipes. Peter had already had a full career in hospitality, cooking at Sandals in Negril, Jamaica; Norwegian Cruise Lines; the Pelican Bay Foundation (an enormous housing development in Florida) and then at bustling hotels and restaurants all over Maine for the summers. Putting down roots in Midcoast Maine must have seemed positively bucolic. Peter first settled in Damariscotta and worked for Stone Cove Catering and King Eider. In 2020, when he first opened his initial J & J shop, he continued working multiple jobs. And the little shop paid its way, all on its own. Success bred ambition, and hence the move to Waldoboro. On busy days, Peter starts the smoker as early as 5AM. While it heats, he preps the vegetables, makes the Jamaican patties (at least four different kinds), starts the stews and mixes and grinds a lot of his own spices. In addition, he cooks up gluten-free and dairy free fare. Everything is from scratch and without preservatives, a point of pride, but that was how cooking was done in Jamaica.
Every morning as a youngster, I, up in the hills, could see the fog in the valleys. And smell coffee, too, for miles and miles, because that was in a time when the wives made breakfast for their husbands who were going to the fields to work, because everybody was getting up early to be planting yams or taking their animals out to pasture.
Our valley was full of ripened coffee being roasted on wood fires in heavy cauldrons, and then the ladies would beat their coffee in a mortar with huge wooden pestles. And once it was roasted, they would brew it, Coffee like that has a smokey flavor and a darker color, and the aroma is strong. A sip of that coffee is like getting a wake-up kick. The flavor was to die for. That was the coffee I drank coffee as a child. It’s made with that are fully-ripened and red, not the green beans you drink here. Even though it’s too expensive to offer here, it’s what I drink every morning here.
I came to Maine because it was peaceful with fresh air all the time. Like my childhood. I don’t like congested places, concrete jungles, so to speak. Maine has space. Maine had space. And I am not afraid of the cold. I love it, from my time working the cruises around Alaska, Russia, and Vancouver in the winter.
This here, it all started from not wanting to be subservient but to be self-sufficient instead. It took years of planning. For a long time, I didn’t know how or when I was going to do it. And then COVID came, and we did it. If you look at history, through plagues, famines and droughts, there’s always innovation.
We opened in Damariscotta. The idea was simple: while you are on your “stay-cation,” change up your cooking. Get some new spices. Pretend you are in Jamaica and pretend there is a beach you’re going to, and make up some jerk chicken or ribs, and we’ll provide you with the ingredients.
It was a risk coming to Waldoboro. This is an old building with old floors and little insulation. To take something like this on, you have to believe that the hard work will pay off. You have to keep on going. Otherwise, your first enemy will be when you lose yourself. And then you lose hope. You lose drive. Giving up on something you want should not come easily.
Still, you need help. We have been blessed with the people from Waldoboro and Warren. Because it’s not the Jamaicans who support us. It’s the Americans. That surprised me and was humbling. And by help, I mean the sort of thing that if I need advice on building, I can ask someone. There was also a lot of physical stuff I couldn’t do. But people pitched in. They still say, “If you need a hand, you can always ask me.”
I learned just about everything on my own. But I learned to cook from my mother. She said, “No son of hers will be taken advantage of by any woman: learn to wash, cook and clean for yourself first.” She taught each of her sons to be on our own. I am her second son.
Some people come in the store with the misconception that we are an American grocery store, and I have to tell them that no, we are a Jamaican store, and we are here to be different. We’re here to add flavor and change. You wouldn’t eat here every day (though there are a few who come close), but for when you want something a little spicy. And another day, you can get steak at Bullwinkles; or have breakfast at Moody’s; or, if you want a piece of pizza, every service station will have that.
And for the people who come through that door, I welcome them. And I am genuine. If I smile, I am really smiling. I’m not putting it on because I need your business. When I ask, “How are you doing,” I am really asking. I’m not saying it because it’s a greeting. I’d rather not say anything.
A lot of people come in and they are tired, or they’ve had an argument. I am still going to ask, “How are you doing?” because I’m concerned, and I want to know. And if you are angry and still decide to be angry, I’m going to say, “Okay. I hope you have a wonderful day, anyway.”
I believe in God, Jehovah and the power of prayer. So, I pray. I believe you can change people’s mindset. I’m not governed by anyone looking over me, telling me what I can and cannot do. So, if you don’t have enough money, you can still eat food here. And if you come inside and you are hungry? You will get food. Because that is a God-given right.
And yes, I need to take care of my family. I need to pay bills. And I do need to take care of property and all that stuff. But in the end, I can’t take it with me when I die.
I just want to live well. And be happy.
Yes, things will change. We want to be a full restaurant. And I want to mix up how things are made. Try some fusion. Like, everybody knows what a piccata is, with the capers and the lemon. But what if it were a little bit different?
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